Salt from sidewalks, roads can damage landscapes

by Bill Hlubik/For The Star-Ledger

Wednesday December 31, 2008, 2:02 PM

RICHARD WEIDMAN A woman spreads salt on a sidewalk near a parking area. Salt can move from these areas into nearby lawns and landscape beds, and potentially be dangerous to sensitive plants.

More than 15 million tons of salt are used each year to keep roads clear of ice and improve travel conditions in the United States. Along major highways in the Northeast, you may notice certain trees damaged on the side facing the road. Some of this damage can be attributed to salt spray and salt damage from root uptake into sensitive trees and shrubs.

In the same way, sensitive trees, shrubs and other plants in your landscape can be damaged with high concentrations of de-icing salts accumulating in soils or from salt spray to foliage. Excessive fertilizers also can cause similar damage to select plants. Fertilizers are combinations of various nutrients, often in the form of a salt compound.

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Protect holiday plants from cold

by Bill Hlubik/For The Star-Ledger

Wednesday December 24, 2008, 2:10 PM

Bill Hlubik/The Star-Ledger

Several readers have asked about protecting holiday plants when transporting them to friends and family during cold temperatures.

Many plants are sold with a thin plastic wrap or sleeve that provides some protection from cold winds. Protective sleeves are necessary for many sensitive plants such as poinsettias and Christmas cactus, but provide limited protection. If you've purchased or are transporting holiday plants, do not let sensitive plants sit in vehicles without heat. This time of the year, temperatures fall rapidly and can lead to leaf and flower loss with your treasured gifts.

Avoid placing plants in the trunk where temperatures can fall rapidly. Put these plants in a warm, protected part of your vehicle and move them indoors as quickly as possible. If you have several stops to make during the day, bring gift plants into the house for protection. At home, don't expect to store plants in locations like an unheated garage on bitter cold days.

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Mistletoe is parasite of many soft bark trees

by Bill Hlubik/For The Star-Ledger

Wednesday December 17, 2008, 1:30 PM

STAR-LEDGER FILE PHOTOMistletoe may contribute to tree mortality with weakened trees, but some ecologists consider it beneficial in providing winter cover and nesting sites for some birds.

Q. Is it true that mistletoe can actually harm trees?
-- Alan S., Jamesburg

A. The mistletoe most common in our area is phoradendron flavescens. This species can be found growing from New Jersey to Florida. The mistletoe commonly found in our area is a parasite of many soft bark trees. Some mistletoes also produce some of their own food through photosynthesis, thus, the name, hemiparasite. The seeds of mistletoes often are spread from one tree to another in the feces of birds. The seeds germinate and grow best on soft bark trees, but also can grow on other trees with wounds or cracks. The seeds send out roots, which grow through the bark and into the cambial layer of the tree, absorbing nutrients and water. Mistletoe may contribute to tree mortality with weakened trees, but some ecologists consider the plant beneficial in providing winter cover and nesting sites for select bird species.

Mistletoe has a great deal of folklore associated with its use during the holiday season. Stories date back to the Middle Ages, when the plant was harvested during the mid-summer and winter solstices. Greeks used the plant as part of the festival of Saturnalia, during which it became customary to kiss beneath the mistletoe. The tradition spread to other cultures and eventually became part of the Christmas tradition of kissing under the mistletoe.

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Choosing a tree is family tradition

by Bill Hlubik/For The Star-Ledger

Wednesday December 10, 2008, 5:32 PM

Tracey and Vrian Douches, with sons Brett, left, and Bradley, visit the Habiak farm in South Brunswick to choose a Christmas tree.

It's a cool Saturday morning, but excitement is in the air as the Douches family searches for the perfect Christmas tree. Brian Douches and son Brett are maneuvering a little green wagon between the thousands of live Christmas trees at the Habiak farm in South Brunswick.

Eventually, the two meet up with Brian's wife, Tracey, and their son Bradley, who have staked out several trees that they like. After looking at each carefully, they select a Douglas fir.

"We've been cutting our own Christmas trees for 11 years now, since the kids were very young," Brian Douches says.

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Hybrid lily's beauty is twice as nice

by Bill Hlubik/The Star-Ledger

Wednesday December 03, 2008, 1:43 PM

TIEMI CURRY/RUTGERS UNIVERSITY 'Ramapo Red Passion' lily

If you're looking for a unique gift for the holidays, there's a new lily that keeps on giving -- with beautiful blooms.

Richard Merritt, professor of the school of environmental and biological sciences at Rutgers University, began work on this hybrid series at the New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station in 1996.

Since then, he has worked with colleagues Nick Vorsa and Tom Gianfagna, "using conventional breeding with crosses between L. longiflorum and asiatics, orientals and trumpet lilies," Merritt says.

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Ornamental kale brightens winter landscape

by Bill Hlubik/The Star-Ledger

Wednesday November 26, 2008, 12:28 PM

William T. HlubikOrnamental kale and gourds fill a planter.

Q. I picked up 10 ornamental kale plants to place in large pots in my front yard. Do these plants need any special care ? How long will they last in cold temperatures ? Is ornamental kale edible?
-- Jessica M., Plainfield

A. Ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), is one of more than 3,000 species in the brassica or mustard family. Ornamental kale is edible, but is grown primarily for its ornamental attributes. Kale can provide extended color and interest to fall and winter landscapes. Proper care is important to maintain healthy-looking plants.

Kale is treated as an annual for our area and replanted each year. The plant is actually a biennial, which means that it completes its life cycle in two years. In the second year, plants flower and produce seed, completing their life cycle. Plants may not survive through the winter due to rapid temperature changes.

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Perennial lavenders lend fragrance to garden

by Bill Hlubik/The Star-Ledger

Wednesday November 19, 2008, 4:29 PM

A. Lavender (Lavandula) is a wonderful perennial that adds fragrance to any garden or landscape bed. All lavenders are perennial, but there are differences -- in fragrance, growth, bloom time and winter hardiness -- among species and hybrids. There is such diversity within the lavender family that it is possible to have continuous bloom throughout the growing season, from spring to fall.

Types of lavenders
Lavenders can be grouped into the categories of non-English, English and lavandins. In the non-English group, there are Spanish lavender, yellow lavender, sweet lavender, French lavender, woolly lavender and their hybrids.

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Fungal disease may cause browning

by Bill Hlubik/The Star-Ledger

Wednesday November 12, 2008, 3:06 PM

Q. When the leaves of an evergreen plant (spruce) turn brown from too much or too little water, what is the best way to regenerate green leaves?
-- Don M.

A. A certain level of browning of older needles is expected on evergreens. When excessive browning occurs from the bottom of the plant and moves up the tree, then fungal disease may be the culprit. Excessive or inadequate moisture for extended periods can lead to high levels of plant stress and weaken plants. These trees then can be more susceptible to disease and insect problems.

Several common fungal disease problems, including Rhizosphaera needle cast and Cytopspora canker, appear on spruces. Rhizosphaera needle cast can cause older needles to turn purplish-brown before dropping. The disease often starts on the interior and bottom of the tree, and works its way up stressed trees. You can identify infected needles with a magnifying glass. Look for tiny black dots in lines along the length of suspect needles. The use of copper-based fungicides or other controls may be necessary the following spring once the problem is clearly diagnosed.

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Japanese maples turn from red to green

by Bill Hlubik/The Star-Ledger

Wednesday November 05, 2008, 3:58 PM

STAR-LEDGER FILE PHOTOClimate, soil and genetics influence the color of Japanese maples.

Q. I have a small, three-year-old Japanese maple tree that had red leaves when it was planted. Now, the leaves are green each year. Is there anything that I can do to make them red again?
-- James O., Butler

A. Climate conditions and the soil environment can influence fall color in trees. Genetics also can play a major role in normal and seasonal coloration of tree leaves. Some Japanese maples stay red throughout the entire season, while others turn red only during fall coloration.

Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) can demonstrate variability in color based on genetics and grafting. Green-leafed varieties often are easier to propagate, so nurseries often will graft red-leaf varieties onto green-leaf root stock. If the green-leaf root stock sends up suckers or shoots that become dominant, then the root stock portion may become the dominant portion of the plant.

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Getting to the root of browning issue

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday October 29, 2008, 3:37 PM

RICHARD WEIDMANArborvitae above thrive in full sun.

QUESTION:
I planted 32 emerald-green arborvitaes between the end of August and early September. Plants range in height from 7 feet to 10 feet. They are turning brown quickly from the bottom up, with some browning throughout. I hit a layer of clay when I dig 12 inches. I mixed peat moss and pine bark mulch, and raised the trees 6 inches above the rest of the yard. I have been watering once a week and the soil stays moist. Am I watering too much? Plants get more shade than sun, but all trees get a few hours of sun. I don't know what to do and how to solve the problem.
-- James C., South River

ANSWER:
There are several possible causes to the downfall of your arborvitaes. I believe soil conditions and lack of sunlight are leading to the problems with these trees. Arborvitaes grow best in full sun, and you have described your landscape as mostly shade with only a few hours of sun.

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Hells Bells! Beware this poisonous weed and its seeds

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday October 22, 2008, 2:00 PM

Though it is pretty, jimson weed is poisonous and should be kept away from children and animals.

Q. Could you please identify this plant? It is growing in my garden and was partially eaten by a groundhog. The plant is about 18 inches and has very large leaves. The plant bloomed and there were many buds, and now prickly-like pods. Need help identifying this plant and some tips for controlling groundhogs.
-- Elaine B., Rockaway

A. The plant that you are describing is Datura stramonium or jimson weed. This a relatively common weed in pastures, cultivated areas and open fields in New Jersey.

Jimson weed is in the family Solanacea, also known as the nightshade family. These annual plants can reach 1 foot to 5 feet in height. Leaves can be 3 inches to 8 inches long, and 3 inches to 6 inches wide, with irregular, pointy edges resembling a pin oak leaf. The 2-inch to 7-inch long flowers of jimson weed are trumpet-shaped and can be white to purple in color. Flowers open in the evening and form a tight cluster during the day.

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Full-color snapshots of autumn in all its glory

by Bill Hlubik/For The Star-Ledger

Wednesday October 15, 2008, 5:48 PM

With more than 15,480 acres of woods and lakes, Stokes State Forest in Sandyston Township in Branchville is a prime attraction. I visited the park last weekend, when the autumn leaf color was breathtaking throughout the Kittatinny Mountains, which include part of the Appalachian Trail.

Just northeast of Stokes State Forest is High Point State Park, with an additional 14,193 acres of forest, lakes and wetlands. The camping sites at both parks were booked solid over the weekend as campers enjoyed the spectacular views.

These state parks are very important for all residents of our region. The trees and wetlands help to filter and purify air and water and provide a home for wildlife. There are numerous hiking trails at both locations, several leading to the top of Sunrise Mountain, which is the second-highest peak in New Jersey at 1,600 feet.

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Protect plants now for changes in temperature to come

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday October 08, 2008, 4:29 PM

DAVID T. SMELAYoung evergreens exposed to winter winds should be protected with a wind block of fabric or burlap.

Many gardeners spend a great deal of time and money getting their landscapes in order with just the right selection of plants.

However, in the fall, it's common to neglect the same plants that you spent so much time nurturing in the spring and summer. Just because the season is over, it doesn't mean that caring for landscape plants is over.

Newly planted trees and shrubs are especially sensitive to rapid temperature changes and lack of water during dry spells with higher than average temperatures. In order to stay healthy, these plants need about 1 to 1½ inches of water per week. This can be natural rainfall or irrigation.

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Time to tidy up the garden for winter days

by Bill Hlubik/The Star-Ledger

Wednesday October 01, 2008, 2:27 PM

By removing garden debris, you also are removing disease organisms that can impact next season's crops.

Once you've mapped out your garden, you can practice crop rotation next year and reduce the potential for disease and insect problems. Crop rotation simply means avoiding placing plants from the same family in the same spot two years in a row. Plants such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and potatoes are in the nightshade family. Certain disease and insect problems can build up and become more problematic if these plants are repeatedly planted in the same area, year after year. The same principle applies to cucurbits such as cucumbers, melons, squash and pumpkins.

In some cases, gardeners do not have room to rotate to a new location. One solution is to grow plants in pots, with fresh potting mix, the following season. Provide a large enough pot to support the vegetable plant and look for varieties that are already adapted for small or moderate size containers.

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Turn over a rich additive for your soil

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday September 24, 2008, 3:26 PM

Debbie Henry of the Middlesex County Earth Center fills an Earth Machine compost bin at the center in South Brunswick.

Compost is by far one of the best ingredients to improve soils and keep plant roots healthy throughout the yard and garden.

Most of the trees in the world are never fertilized. Take a walk in the woods and you will see a thick layer of leaves. As you dig down, the leaves are in different stages of decomposition -- until you reach a deep, dark organic layer. This layer helps to insulate plant roots, as well as secure long-term nutrients and water for plant roots. In nature, nutrients are recycled from dead leaves, twigs, logs and animals. This natural recycling of nutrients helps plants to grow at a natural rate, so that these plants are often more resistant to some common problems that attack landscape plants, which can be overfertilized.

Composting is a natural process during which organic materials (once living organisms) are broken down into their basic components into a rich humus. When compost is completely broken down, it adds valuable organic matter and nutrients to soils to support the growth of plants and soil microbes.

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Fall is best time to rid your lawn of thatch

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday September 17, 2008, 2:34 PM

The discussion of lawn varieties and the need for renovation last week triggered more detailed questions from readers. Joe P. from Bridgewater and John M. from Old Bridge asked for more details on core aeration and de-thatching.

Joe renovated his lawn lawn last year and John had a lawn-care company renovate his lawn several times over the past three years. Both readers experienced less than optimal results. Their renovation efforts were not successful because the work was done in the spring, which can be a more difficult time to achieve success. In addition, neither gardener provided proper care afterward to help turf grasses remain healthy.

Timing is important
Lawn renovation is best done in early fall. This will provide time for lawns to recover since temperatures become cooler and the potential for heat and drought stress often decreases.

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Summer's last hurrah

by Valerie Sudol/The Star-Ledger

Wednesday September 10, 2008, 4:57 PM

NORMAN WINTERBuckingham zucchini squash

The show, which is sponsored by the Navesink Garden Club, features floral designs, annuals, perennials, vegetables, roses and herbs grown by garden club members. Ribbons are awarded in each category by nationally accredited judges.

Other attractions include educational exhibits on native plants, a special thrust of the club in light of worsening issues with invasive imported plants. The September show is a tradition with the club, and "Summer's Last Hurrah" is the 13th annual event.

For more information, call (732) 291-5344 or visit NavesinkGrdnClub.org.

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Webworm has gone wild in the yard

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday September 03, 2008, 2:52 PM

BILL HLUBIKFall webworm on a cherry tree.

A. The webs you describe are caused by an insect called fall webworm (Hyphantria cunea). This is a widely distributed native pest of forests and home landscapes from Canada to Mexico, attacking many species of trees and shrubs. About 90 species of deciduous trees are susceptible to this insect, including hickory, walnut, birch, cherry, elm, maple and apple.

The webworms enclose twigs and leaves within the nest on the end of a branch. Another web-forming insect, tent caterpillar, is similar in appearance but active in the spring and forms nests in tree crotches. Fall webworm nests will appear in late summer or early fall and they will contain caterpillars, food and fecal droppings. The damage is usually limited to a few branches on larger trees and in most cases, insecticide applications are not necessary.

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Use oils to control hemlock woolly adelgid

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday August 27, 2008, 2:53 PM

STAR-LEDGER FILE PHOTOHemlock woolly adelgid

A. The hemlock woolly adelgid (Adelges tsugae) has been a pest in the United States since 1924. This insect, a native of Asia, is a serious pest of hemlocks from the Smoky Mountains to southern New England. Hemlock forests are severely impacted because it is very difficult to get complete coverage of the foliage using aerial applications of insecticides. In a landscape setting, and with proper equipment, treatment is much more effective. Trees of all ages are attacked and insects are more devastating on those that are under environmental or cultural stress.

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Soil compaction may be cause of problem for new trees

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday August 20, 2008, 3:41 PM

RICHARD WEIDMANLilacs grow best in an open area, such as this entrance area to the EARTH Center of Rutgers Cooperative Research and Extension of Middlesex County.

With soil test results, you will also get an indication as to the severity of soil compaction. With newly planted sod, it may not be wise to core aerate until the roots are established. I would wait until next fall to aerate.

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Azaleas in bad shape and grass under a tree

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday August 13, 2008, 2:53 PM

Joanne ConnollyAdequate mulching and even watering can help azaleas endure a hot, dry summer.

A. Azaleas are understory plants that thrive in 15 percent to 30 percent shade, with organic soils that retain moisture but are not overly saturated. These plants have shallow root systems that can dry out very quickly under hot and dry conditions. The unusual high temperatures and scattered drought conditions can stress sensitive plants like azaleas and may lead to loss of flower buds.

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Keeping pesky animals out of the garden

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday August 06, 2008, 2:42 PM

STAR-LEDGER FILE PHOTO

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Plant health

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday July 30, 2008, 3:12 PM

-- Apply 2 inches to 3 inches of compost mulch around plants in the landscape and vegetable garden to conserve moisture and protect roots from excessively high temperatures.

-- Set up a timer to automatically water vegetable gardens with drip irrigation, or lawns and trees with overhead sprinklers. Schedule irrigation during the early morning or very late evening hours (after 10 p.m.) to conserve moisture and reduce foliar diseases.

-- Use pots that have a water reserve and wicking system. Containers can be purchased from local home and garden shops or online.

-- Let the lawn grow a little longer (2½ inches to 3 inches) to keep it healthier when it's especially hot out. This will provide natural shading -- and protection -- to turf crowns.

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Fading rhododendron and rings of dead grass

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday July 30, 2008, 2:46 PM

PAT OATESFairy ring fungus has caused this horseshoe-shaped damage to a reader's lawn.

A. Recent high temperatures have increased heat and drought stress on many plants, especially newly planted trees, shrubs and lawns.

Rhododendrons and azaleas are found in nature as understory plants. In landscapes, we should try to match a plant's native environmental conditions. In this case, rhododendrons thrive in 15 percent to 30 percent shade, with highly organic soils that maintain even moisture but do not become overly saturated.

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Help plants avoid heat stress

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday July 23, 2008, 4:37 PM

STAR-LEDGER FILE PHOTOSummer's high temperatures can cause cool-season grasses such as bluegrass to go into dormancy.

Our recent heat wave and scattered rainfall has prompted questions from readers on proper watering and techniques to keep plants healthy.

Q. When is the best time to water lawn and garden plants during this heat wave? Many of my garden plants appear to be wilting, even with periodic watering.
-- Maria Emens, via e-mail

A. Newly planted trees and shrubs are most sensitive to heat and drought damage. Special care should be taken to help establish strong roots on plants younger than 1 or 2 years old.

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Fighting the good weed fight

by Bill Hlubik

Thursday July 17, 2008, 5:05 AM

Ground ivy

Q. There is a weed taking over our lawn. It is a vine with round leaves less than an inch in size and its leaf margin is wavy. It has a purple flower in the spring. I've tried various weed killers and nothing works. What can I do to get rid of these weeds, or at least keep them at a minimum?
-- Carmella C., Edison

A. This has been a banner year for all types of weeds. The one that you describe could be ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea), a very persistent perennial plant with long, creeping square stems. It is a difficult weed to eliminate from the yard due to its ability to root at the nodes (swollen areas) along the entire length of the stem. Its mature plants have both trailing stems and rhizomes. As ground ivy forms roots, it will form dense prostrate patches on the surface. The plant also emits a familiar mint-like odor when bruised, removed or mowed.

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Healthy maple's leaves suddenly dying off

by Bill Hlubik/The Star-Ledger

Wednesday July 09, 2008, 1:40 PM

BILL HLUBIKMany leaf spots on maple tree leaves are superficial and no fungicides are necessary. Relieve stress on trees with proper watering and mulching.

Q. I have a large maple tree in my backyard that did not fully leaf out this spring; what did leaf out is dying off. The tree had been healthy and lush until this spring. There is another smaller maple directly across the street dying the same way and the second lot over from that one has a sick maple being removed. The leaves that formed looked to be stunted and the helicopters don't have much in the way of a seed in them. The branches that have fallen are bone dry and don't show an insect infestation. I didn't see evidence of the longhorned beetle in my tree. What is the problem?
-- Brent B., Metuchen

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Watch out for these beetles -- They'll feast on your plants

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday June 25, 2008, 2:51 PM

ALBRECHT KOPPENHOFERThe Oriental beetle is a common pest that likes to chew on the petals of ornamental plants.

A: There are many genera and species of beetles found this time of year. Based on the description, it is not the dreaded Asian longhorned beetle or similar beetles belonging to the long-horned beetle family (Family Cerambycidae). The Asian longhorned beetle is a large beetle three-quarters to 1¼ inches long, with a black body that has mottled white spots.

The long antennae are 1½ to 2½ times the length of the body, and have black and white bands on each segment. These very large beetles can be confused with the whitespotted pine sawyer, a longhorned beetle that attacks conifers (plants with needle or scale-like leaves) and cottonwood borer, one of the largest longhorned beetles in the country. Longhorned beetles can cause tremendous damage to trees.

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Reuse summer produce in the compost pile

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday June 18, 2008, 12:57 PM

BILL HLUBIKRich Weidman turns compost in a three-bin composter made from recycled plastic.

I keep a 1-gallon airtight container in the kitchen for fruit and vegetable scraps. I try to cut scraps into small pieces to help speed up decomposition in the compost pile. Select a container large enough to hold scraps for two or three days, so you can make fewer trips to the pile.

You can compost all of your fruit and vegetable scraps, shredded paper, leaves, weeds (without seeds), excess lawn clippings and fireplace ash. Do not compost meats, bones or any food scraps with oil or soap residues. Avoid composting pet waste, due to possible disease transmission and potential odor problems.

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Improving your yard when you want it all

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday June 04, 2008, 4:03 PM

FRANK JACOBS III/THE TRENTON TIMESA river birch tree is among the trees that are low-maintenance choices for your landscape.

I receive many inquiries from readers and students regarding recommendations for lower maintenance landscapes. Many people would like to reduce their use of pesticides and commercial fertilizers and, at the same time, minimize overall maintenance, such as weeding, watering and mowing.

In other words, they want it all -- want plants that will take care of themselves and look great.

I suggest beginning by taking small steps toward a low-maintenance and more environmentally friendly landscape.

Take inventory
The first step is to document your landscape design, on paper or computer, to determine your maintenance needs. For instance, if 70 percent of your landscape is high-maintenance Kentucky bluegrass that requires more fertilizer, mowing and watering than you care to employ, it may be time to look at alternatives. You could consider reducing or eliminating high-maintenance lawn grass by replacing it with a lower maintenance turf-type tall fescue or hard fescue -- these require less fertilizers and water, and, in some cases, less mowing.

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Landscape design 101: Placing plants properly

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday May 28, 2008, 2:56 PM

DAVID J. HLUBIKIf properly placed, a tree like the maple 'October Glory' can provide valuable shade.

Over the past several months, I've received questions prompting me to write about basic landscape design principles. I see many landscape designs that, with a little help, could be outstanding. Here is my advice:

Don't block entrances, windows
In some landscapes, plants have taken over the yard and it's difficult to find the front door. One of the first houses my wife and I looked at was surrounded by plants that blocked doors and windows, and English ivy covered half of the house. Although it had that cottage feel to it, I knew that the landscape needed pruning and thinning to make it habitable. The lack of air circulation around the home was encouraging mold growth on the siding. In addition, the overabundance of plant material close to the home encouraged ant colonies and other insects to establish their homes there.

Landscape designs should lead your eye to the main entrance. In terms of security, it's wise to have major entryways open to deter burglars from selecting your location as the next stop. Behind the shelter of plants or fences, it is easier for them to break into your home unnoticed.

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Keep veggie plants safe once they're in soil

by Bill Hlubik/For The Star-Ledger

Wednesday May 21, 2008, 1:08 PM

STUART RAMSON/ASSOCIATED PRESSGroundhogs are always plotting to raid the garden. Fencing is the only sure way to keep them out.

Now that you've planted the vegetable garden, it's important to protect young transplants and seedlings. I've received questions from readers on problems with everything from slugs to groundhogs. In addition to common pest problems, it's also important to monitor low temperatures and soil moisture levels to insure healthy plants.

Frost and cold protection: When temperatures dip into the low 40s, some warm season plants such as peppers, eggplants and cucumbers can be damaged or stunted. It's wise to cover all warm-season vegetables on cold nights with a frost cap or large container. Tomatoes can withstand cooler temperatures than other similar vegetables, but will benefit from protection if temperatures reach the low 40s, and especially the 30s. If you have tomatoes or other transplants in cages, you can wrap clear plastic around the cages to protect them in cool temperatures.

Fences keep out large pests: I put up fencing immediately after planting the garden. It seems that all of the rabbits and groundhogs in the neighborhood know once the planting is done and they contact all of their friends to come over for an all-you-can-eat buffet. I learned after the first year that a fence was the most important protective step after planting.

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These concepts help a healthy garden grow

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday May 14, 2008, 1:21 PM

ROSE HOWERTER/PHILADELPHIA INQUIRERGardeners can improve the soil in their vegetable patch with peat moss or finished compost.

Now that planting time has arrived for many of our vegetables, I am receiving a great number of questions on soil preparation, amendments and mulches. Some so-called "topsoils," sold in bags or in bulk, may have undesirable ingredients for a vegetable garden. Here is a sample of some questions and, in my response, some concepts you may want to consider before you use certain soil amendments or products.

Q. Is dyed-black mulch toxic and therefore not to be used in a vegetable garden, or is it safe?
-- Joseph P., Roselle Park

A. If you mean black plastic mulch, then the answer is yes, it is safe to use in the vegetable garden. There are a variety of plastic mulch colors that are used commonly in vegetable gardens and commercial farms. Colors include black, red, green, blue, white and brown. You can buy plastic mulches from many garden centers or use heavy-duty garbage bags around plants to reduce weeds and help retain moisture.

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Timing tomatoes and peppers

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday April 30, 2008, 4:15 PM

BILL HLUBIKMaster Gardener George Kuhne of Metuchen takes part in an Agricultural Field Day on Saturday in New Brunswick.

Despite a cool, damp start this past Saturday, we had a terrific Agricultural Field Day at the Rutgers School of Environmental and Biological Sciences, Cook College Campus, in New Brunswick. In addition to all of the great music, crafts and activities for adults and kids, we had a tremendous assortment of unique plants for sale. The famous 'Ramapo' tomato developed at Rutgers was the hot item that sold out within hours of the start of the program.

At our Master Gardener and EARTH Center plant sale and informational tables, we answered many great questions about vegetables, herbs and flowers. Here is one of the questions.

Q. When is the best time to plant tomatoes and peppers?
-- Rick, East Brunswick

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Make sure your lawn is a natural beauty

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday April 23, 2008, 3:01 PM

Bill HlubikChoosing pest-resistant and low-maintenance plants can keep your landscape healthy -- and require less pesticides and fertilizer.

Q. I don't want to give up a nice green lawn, but I would like to know about natural alternatives to commercial fertilizers and pesticides. My daughter came home from school last week questioning our gardening activities and our contribution to global warming. We have decided to make a family commitment towards a more environmentally friendly lifestyle and my husband is now looking to purchase a hybrid car. What alternatives would you recommend for the yard?
-- Jan H., South Brunswick

A. First, I want to congratulate you and your family for committing to a more environmentally friendly lifestyle. Our children are often the best motivators for positive change. My family made the same commitment to do our part to be better stewards of our environment. My son convinced my wife and me to replace every light in the house with low-energy bulbs. In addition, we compost all vegetable and fruit scraps as well as leaves and other yard debris. We have reduced, and in many cases eliminated, the use of commercial fertilizers and pesticides and instead use Integrated Pest Management to control problems. You can have healthy plants and a great-looking landscape by learning how to work with nature.

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Helping a fig tree bear fruit

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday April 09, 2008, 5:38 PM

RICH WEIDMANFig trees, whether in containers or in the ground, have a long juvenile period during which they produce no fruit.

It is not uncommon for figs to fail to set fruit or ripen properly. Figs have a long juvenile period, or length of time in which a plant will not produce fruit -- possibly four years to five years. It is important to not overfertilize plants. A spring application of an organic fertilizer is sufficient for plants in the ground, but potted figs may require periodic feeding with a dilute, balanced fertilizer during the summer.

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Safely replanting a beloved peach tree

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday April 02, 2008, 3:06 PM

STAR-LEDGER FILE PHOTOSpring is an ideal time to move trees, including peach trees, because it gives them more time to adjust to their new environment and prepare for the next winter.

Q. Twelve years ago, as a housewarming gift, I was given a white peach tree, which I planted in what has turned out to be the wrong place. I love this tree, and am thinking about having it moved. What's involved here? When is the best time to do this? Thanks for any guidance!
-- Pat T., Hardwick

A. There are a few items to keep in mind when moving any well-established tree. You'll have to dig a large enough root ball to minimize stress and maintain soil moisture. It is also very important to provide the proper soil environment and a location that is sunny and sheltered from adverse weather conditions.

It should be noted that peach trees are short-lived trees that usually live fewer than 20 years, and their blossoms are susceptible to late frosts. It is important to not choose a windy location or low-lying area, which may increase the potential for frost damage.

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The best fruit for your backyard garden

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday March 26, 2008, 2:25 PM

STAR-LEDGER FILE PHOTOBrambles such as raspberries grow best in full sun and well-drained loamy soil.

Our goal is to add more fruit-bearing bushes and trees, for eating and cooking. I'd particularly like to have blackberries, raspberries, blueberries and possibly grapes.

What are the best varieties for our area? How quickly will they bear fruit? What are the best varieties for disease resistance and hardiness? Do they need protection?
-- Bridget S., Monclair

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Saving your favorite garden geraniums

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday March 19, 2008, 5:06 PM

ED HUTCHINSON/NEWHOUSE NEWS SERVICEAdequate light is critical when geraniums are moved indoors.

While I can get new red ones each year, there are some colors I have and especially like that are hard to find in the spring. Anything you advise would be appreciated.
-- Joe B.

A. Many gardeners want to bring the beauty of geraniums indoors for the winter season. The assumption is that we are talking about the garden "geranium," which is not a true geranium and is not hardy in our climate. The true geraniums are often referred to as hardy geraniums or cranesbills, so named for the shape of their seedpods. The garden geraniums belong to the genus pelargonium, which means "stork" in Latin. There are more than 200 pelargonium species and thousands of hybrids.

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Salvage storm-damaged trees

by Bill Hlubik

Wednesday March 12, 2008, 4:26 PM

BILL HLUBIKAn ornamental pear tree damaged by a recent storm.

It can be a good idea to stake young trees for the first year, especially if you're planting on a windy site. The stakes can help root systems to establish and prevent wind damage. They are normally removed after the first year to allow movement in tree trunks, which can help strengthen them.